Perhaps Australia's best road trip!
In June this year I (Rochelle), set off with friends to the Tip of Australia. This holiday far exceeded expectations, and is one of my most memorable trips. Whilst there isn't a lot hiking involved, there is plenty of exploring to be done. I wanted to share my tips, learnings and itinerary to hopefully help you plan your own adventure north.
Fun fact: Cape York is not only the most northern point of the Australian continent, it is also the largest unspoiled wilderness in Northern Australia and a 4WD enthusiast dream.
Day 1 Cairns to Elim Beach
Our epic trip started from Cairns, on the first day we drove from Cairns to Elim Beach. Elim beach is located just north of Hopevale. We stayed at Eddie's Camp two nights. The cost to camp at Eddie's Camp is $15 per person per night (for an umpowered site). There are Eftpos facilities. The campsite itself is great as it is located on the beach . There are toilets and cold showers available. You will need to be self-sufficient in terms of food and drinks.
The campsite is within the restricted alcohol area. We recommend you obtain information about alcohol restrictions before heading North, this is available on the Queensland Government website.
Activities at Elim Beach
In addition to exploring the beach around the campsite, there are two absolute must-do's whilst staying at Eddie's Camp.
The first is the Coloured Sands. If you are not staying at Eddie's Camp, you will have to stop at Reception to pay the $10 to access the coloured sands. You should also get some information from the locals about tides. You want to only drive on the beach during low tide, there is a risk you can get stuck.
In addition to driving the sands, there is also a famous sand duneto climb. Whilst it is well worn, it might not bee too easy to find. Keep you eye out for the first most white sand dune of the drive, this is the sand dune you can and should climb.
The second must-do is exploring Cape Bedford. This will require a 4WD and can get a little hairy. You should not attempt this track unless you are okay with loosing some paint on your car as the track is very narrow with scrub on either side.
When you arrive at Cape Bedford you can drive along the beach to your left and up a hill for an absolutely epic experience and lookout.
If you take a right turn when you get to the beach and drive along the beach, there is another hill with 4WD tracks. Whilst we didn't drive these tracks due to how steep they were, I couldn't resist going for a walk up to the top to have a look around.
Another interesting fact about Cape Bedford is just how much rubbish litters the beach due to the tides. Whilst Parley Australia are doing some incredible work cleaning up the beach, you will see what I mean when you arrive.
Tip for Eddies Camp- if you have purchased a Hema Map for the Cape (which we recommend you do) it will tell you to stop at the Service Station at Hopevale to purchase your permit to stay at Eddie's Camp. This information is outdated and there is a Reception you check into at the actual camp grounds.
To fit in both Cape Bedford and the Coloured Sands you probably want at least 2 nights here so that you are not rushed. Given that Eddie's Camp is not far north of Cook Town it is an easy destination for a great long weekend trip from Cairns.
Day 3 Elim Beach to Archer River
We spent one night at Archer River Roadhouse. It was a decent drive from Elim to Archer. If you were wanting to break up the driving more you could also throw in a night at Musgrave Roadhouse.
We recommend that you fuel up in Laura, as north of Laura fuel gets more expensive.
Camping at Archer River costs $10 per person per night. Hot showers are available for guests. If you are not a guest, the cost to use the showers is $5 per person. Treat yourself to the famous Archer Burger for dinner. You can also purchase beer at the bar, and takeaways. There are laundry facilities including clothes lines. There is no need to book a site here, you can just turn up.
The river is a very short walk north of the campsite. There were also some people camping in the sand along the river bed. We arrived later in the afternoon so didn't have a lot of time to enjoy the river, there were plenty of people swimming though.
Day 4 Archer River to Chilli Beach
We spent one night at Chilli Beach, however could have easily spend two or three nights. I recommend leaving Archer early if you can so that you get in earlier to Chilli. You will need to book a site through the Queensland Parks website. The cost is $6.85 per person per night (current as at August 2021). There are long-drop parks toilets, but no showers.
Chilli beach is just a really cool beach to just chill out. It has super relaxed vibes and it a place where you can actually source and eat fresh coconuts which is pretty bloody awesome in my books.
On your way into Chilli Beach or on your way out, as you drive through Iron Range National Park, be sure to stop and check out the Mt Tozer lookout which is a short 70 metres walk from the highway.
Day 5 Chilli Beach to Bramwell Station Tourist Park
On a whim whilst on the road we decided to cut our time at Chilli Beach from 2 nights down to 1. Whilst we would have loved another night at Chilli, we were going to be taking on the Old Telegraph Track and thought it would be safer to stay closer to the start of the track to get an early start.
This turned out to be a great decision. There are two options for camping close to the Old Tele. The first is the Bramwell Station Tourist Park or Bramwell Station petrol station and road house. We strongly recommend the Tourist Park, they have live music every night, happy hour (5:30 pm to 6:30 pm) with cheap beers. The entertainment was so much fun and this turned out to be one of our favourite nights of the trip.
They offer a buffet dinner but you will need to book that in advance, unfortunately we didn't know this so missed out, it looked good though. There is no need to book a campsite and the cost is $25 per vehicle, per night. There are many hot showers and flushing toilets. If you can try out one of the bush showers. On your way out you can also buy takeaway beers.
Fun fact, Bramwell Station is the most northern cattle station in Australia and consists of around 1133 square km.
Bramwell Station is right next to the start of the Old Tele Track, it is worthwhile filling up fuel before starting.
Day 6 Old Telegraph Track to Eliot Falls Campground
We packed up early after Bramwell Station and hit the Old Telegraph Track.
I personally hadn't done a lot of 4WD so didn't really know what to expect. My expectations were completely blown out of the water. What an experience. If you can do the Old Telegraph then you 100 per cent should. We had an absolute ball!
Would recommend snorkel, bull-bar, winch and under armour, of course this will cost you a lot of $$$ to install if you don't already have it fitted, but without it, we are sure we would have done some pretty hectic damage to the Hilux.
On the first day we definitely broke in the under armour and got to use the winch at Gun Shot Creek.
Below are some of the photos from the track to give you an idea what to expect. We tackled the track over two days. The first day was a big effort, we had to make it to the Eliot Falls Camp Ground. We then had a rest day the following day where we explored the falls. The last day we only did two creek crossings before exiting onto the the PDR.
On the first day we survived Palm, South Alice, North Alice, Dulhunty, Bertie, Gunshot, Cockatoo, Sailor and Scrubb Creeks. If you are going to have a go at the Tele (which I do recommend), watch some Youtube videos to educate you on the creek crossings and also make sure you purchase a map or guide. We purchased and used every day the Hema map and guide.
Some of the photos might be a little bit daunting to look at, including the infamous Gunshot Creek. There are chicken tracks (still sketchy) but a lot less steep and risky. If you educate yourself you should be fine, there are plenty of people about willing to offer a hand if you only just ask.
Day 7 Elliot Falls Campground (a day to explore ad relax)
On day 7 we rested. We soaked up the sun and the warm weather and spent the day in the water. There are just so many amazing sites to visit in this area so you really do need an entire day to do it justice!
Fruit Bat Falls
This impressive waterfall is located on the Old Tele, although it can be more easily accessed via a bypass road. Fruit Bat Falls is the first falls you will come across. It is also separate from the other falls. There is no camping here.
Eliot Falls is a Queensland Parks camping site it pays to book it very far in advance. Fires are permitted in designated fire pits. You will pay the standard Qld Parks rate and will have access to long drop toilets.
We did notice that there were many others camping around other water crossings and holes along the Old Tele Track, however, we were super stoked to get to spend 2 nights at Eliot, and a full day swimming at the various holes. This place is epic for star gazing but make sure you have your bug spray on early.
From the Eliot Falls camping area you will have easy walking access to Eliot Falls, The Sauce Pan and Twin Falls. The camp site is only around 5-10 km away from Fruit Bat Falls as well.
Eliot Falls
The Sauce Pan
The Sauce Pan was one a truely epic place to swim. Just watch out for the nipple biting fish or have your men wear a bikini top!
Twin Falls
You can explore all three tiers of this little beauty. With a sandy bottom this is a great spot for a dip. There is a small walking track in-between Twin and Eliot falls which will take you around the water and to small little cliffs that many people were jumping off.
Day 8 Eliot Falls to Loyalty Beach
Heading North on the Tele we did two final creek crossings before taking the bypass shortcut to the Jardine Ferry to avoid Nolan's Crossing. We would have liked to have had a crack at Nolan's but due to the level of rainfall, we were not quite game enough due to the water levels.
Sam's Creek (Hidden Waterfall)
A short drive north of Eliot Falls is Sam's Creek crossing. Make sure you pull up and look for the hidden waterfall. If you are heading North, the waterfall is before you cross the creek to the right. There is a small trail down to it and it is worth checking out.
After successfully crossing Sam's Creek and Canal Creek (both of which are beautiful spots for a swim) we took the bypass out to the left and exited onto the PDR just before Mistake Creek and hightailed it to the Jardine Ferry.
Loyalty Beach
To access the tip you will need to catch the Jardine Ferry. The cost at time of writing is $100 per vehicle return (make sure you hold onto your ticket for the return). It also covers your access to the tip itself (Pajinka) and free camping and many various locations (without facilities).
When it comes to more luxury camping (and by luxury I mean hot showers), there are two main options. We opted to stay at Loyalty Beach. The other main option is Punsand Bay (which books out very far it advance, but has the advantage of a pool).
One thing we loved about Loyalty Beach is that you are literally camping right on the beach. The location is also arguably more convenient that Punsand, as Punsand is further north and is a fair hike into the actual campsite. There are hot showers, toilets and laundry facilities at Loyalty. It is located close to the town of Bamaga (which is important for beers) and Seisia.
There is no need to book and the cost is $15 per person per night. There is a great restaurant (DJ's Restaurant and Bar). The vibe at DJ's is great, we went here for drinks every night for sunset. The drinks were surprisingly the cheapest of the trip. We stayed here 4 nights all up.
If you find yourself at Loyalty or close by on a Sunday take advantage of their $15 fish n chips special. Be warned, you will need to arrive early on a Sunday and order early, I recommend arriving before 5pm as it gets very busy.
Seisia Wharf
While you are staying at the top end it is worthwhile checking out Seisia Wharf, the water here is a magnificent blue. You will find many people dropping a line here, but just maybe not with much success.
Seisia Wharf is also the gateway to the Torres Strait Islands.
Thursday Island
We did a day trip out to Thursday Island with Peddells Ferrys. We paid a little extra for a bus tour of the island, which is one of the best decisions we made. It also meant we didn't have to walk up the hill to Green Hill Fort which is an absolute must, plus we got access to the museum at the fort.
Hot tip- book your trip to Thursday Island in advance. We were keen to do the 3 Island Tour with Cape York Adventures but this was booked out. We also only just managed to secure the return fares and bus tour with Peddells.
We had lunch at the Grand Hotel which has the best view to down a beer and eat some food on the Island.
The Tip (Pajinka)
The moment we had all been waiting for, and boy did it live up to our expectations. It is hard to describe the feeling of standing next to the iconic sign stating you have reached the most northern point of the Australian continent.
This was an amazing moment. Walking up the track to reach our final destination we were filled with a sense of accomplishment, relief (that the car made it that far) and joy. This was I dare say the happiest moment of the trip.
5 Beaches 4WD Track
Whilst staying at Loyalty Beach, over a couple of beers we heard whispers from other campers about the 5 Beaches 4WD track. We decided we would give it a crack and we are thankful that we did. This turned to be a surprising awesome adventure and something we hadn't actually planned for.
The 5 Beaches Track starts near the tip at Somerset. When you reach Somerset to the left will take you to Fly Point and to the right is the start of the track.
The track is easy to follow and will take you along some of the most beautiful and isolated beaches I have visited). Whilst we didn't count the beaches, we were too busy just enjoying the ride, I swear there were more than 5? Below are a few snaps from the scenery along the way (in no particular order).
Punsand Bay
Whilst we didn't stay at Punsand Bay, we are glad we stopped in for a look after visiting the tip. There is a pretty epic bar (The Corrugation Pub) right on the beach which is worth a visit.
The Croc Tent
On your way up to or on the way back from the Tip, make sure you stop in at the iconic Croc Tent. This place is full of souvenirs and let's be honest, you don't go to the tip of Australia and not come back with a souvenir to show you made it.
WW2 Ruins
Just out of Bamaga (near the airport) there are two historic WW2 sites, which both include a couple of old planes that crashed in the area and fuel dump sites. This is worth a look, but certainly wasn't a highlight of the trip.
Tips for the tip:
The Bamaga Pub is the best place to buy beer, but it isn't opened on Sundays (we found this out the hard way).
Injinoo which is not far from Bamaga had the cheapest fuel when we visited, cheaper by a fair bit too.
There is an IGA in Bamaga which is pretty big and has plenty of supplies, it is obviously more expensive than your regular supermarket though.
Alcohol restrictions apply, do your research before travelling.
There is phone coverage in Bamaga and Thursday Island, but not much elsewhere.
Day 12 Loyalty Beach to Captain Billy's Landing
Captain Billy's Landing is another top notch spot brought to you by Queensland Parks. As this is a less poplar spot you shouldn't have too much trouble booking it.
CBL was one of the places that we ummed and arred about putting on our itinerary. It is a little out of the way, but boy are we glad it made it on the list because we loved it here. The drive in was a bit of fun 4WD. The beach itself is absolutely stunning. It has an untouched vibe and is naturally stunning.
You can walk out past the headlands to the right (South) to a creek where you might even be lucky enough to spot a croc.
We only stayed here one night, but we didn't feel rushed as we arrived early enough to spend a whole day exploring.
There are no showers but there is a long drop Parks toilet which could just be the toilet with the best view in Australia as at the time, it had no door and you could look straight out to the ocean.
Day 13 Captain Billy's Landing to Coen
As we headed back South we decided that we didn't want to stay at Musgrave Station and really just wanted to cover a lot of ground.
We weren't sure where to stay and remembered that on the way North we had seen people camping in the creek of the Coen River. We thought we would give the Coen River a go, but would stop by the pub and town to suss it out first.
We ended up camping at the Coen Exchange Hotel. The camp grounds are right on a beautiful sandy creek. It was the cheapest camping of the whole trip coming in at $15 per site per night. Surprisingly it also had the best showers.
The Exchange Hotel itself was a winner, good meals, fantastic staff, cold beer and free 8-ball and darts. It is also home to the Cape York Shot (if you dare to find out exactly what that is).
We were pleasantly happy with this little gem that we found and I would recommend staying here.
Day 14 Coen to Lions Den Hotel (via Laura)
On the way to our final destination for the trip we stopped in to visit the historic Quinkan Aboriginal Split Rock Art site (which is around 13 km south of Laura). There is a $40 per person fee for a self-guided tour. The site itself is truely incredible.
At the last minute we decided to add the Lions Den Hotel to the trip. We had visited before and fell in love and wanted to go back and leave our mark (literally). We didn't have a booking and the cost is $15 per person per night (unpowered).
If you can manage to get here on a Sunday you will enjoy the best buffet money can buy. If you are not so lucky, the meals are still cheap and delicious. The camp grounds themselves are lovely, hot showers, toilets and access to a river.
Day 15 Lions Den to Cairns
A sad day was the last day, none of us wanted the trip to end. Lucky the last day was a short day and allowed us to have a little bit of a late start, explore Annan River and Gorge (pictured below) which is not far from Lions Den, before arriving home to start the dreaded unpacking.
If you are planning on spending some more time around Lion's Den, check out our blog post on Mount Cook and Cooktown Waterfall Circuit. There are a couple of epic water falls located close by to the Lion's Den which are worth checking out if you have time.
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